Beauty Master Class
5 Secrets to Getting Great Brows
Celebrity makeup artist Sandy Linter shows you how
-Lois Joy Johnson
Top celebrity makeup artist and Lancôme Makeup At Every Age expert Sandy Linter is no stranger to badly plucked brows. “Most women are tempted to take away too much, when the whole idea is to create a brow as elongated and full as possible–that’s what looks youthful and modern.” Brows should always be a little imperfect, so don’t use stencils in the quest for exactly identical brows, says Sandy. And she should know: Her client list includes Ellen Pompeo, Elizabeth Hurley, Penelope Cruz and Eva Longoria Parker, along with loads of real women who visit her in a New York City salon*.
Follow Sandy’s simple steps to get your best brows:
• Shape up. When sizing up where to pluck, remember that you want to visually stretch the brow out as much as possible; you want to avoid creating an extreme arch or a curved shape. The upward slope of the brow, starting at the inner corner near the nose, should be a long, straight, gradual incline that peaks at, or just past, the outer edge of the iris when you are looking directly into a mirror. The outer half of the brow should gently descend while it extends outward; it shouldn’t just fall in a swoop. When the brow is shaped this way, your eyes appear larger.
• Tweeze away and clean up strays. Tweeze in natural daylight near a window and use a magnifying mirror and a pointed-tip tweezer to go those hairs that are falling outside the browline. I know a lot of pros prefer slant-tip versions, but I like a tapered point because it lets me grab stubble and fine hairs accurately and painlessly. Most important: Take away only 70 percent of what you think you should.
• Pencil it in. Most women (except for the darkest brunettes) can and should use a blonde eyebrow pencil; it’s the shade I use on almost everyone from dirty blondes to highlighted brunettes and redheads. You want the color to blend in naturally, and blonde-taupe pencils won’t overpower your eyes.
• Take a powder. A powder pencil like Lancôme Brow Expert Powder Pencil ($23) or a regular brow pencil topped with brow powder fills bare brows well because the wax of the pencil holds the powder in place. For women with skimpy, wiry brows, I like Laura Mercier Brow Definer ($23) a wax-gel formula that controls texture and also fills and tints grays. These solutions are great for hair loss at the outer brow (a common complaint) or thin brows that never recovered from an overplucking.
• Brush out. Start application at the inner corner and work outward with feathery strokes. Use a firm brow brush with a slanted tip for brow powder and a spiral spoolie brush to blend the makeup and your own brow hairs together for a realistic look.
*For a personal makeup application and lesson with Sandy (cost $350), call Rita Hazan Salon (720 Fifth Avenue in New York City) at 212-586-4343. Be sure to tell them you read about Sandy on BettyConfidential.com.